A Day Older in Sri Lanka

Proshnak-nah- meaning “no problem” is a phrase I’ve recently had to utter quite often despite the fact that in normal circumstances I would point out the opposite. Life on the Island as the locals call it, is beautiful and relaxed while equally stressful and frustrating in its own way. Again today we have no water. We have tried to talk to our landlords about this several times but the language barrier has made it tough. In fact our attempt the other day resulted in the wife thinking we had invited the whole family up for tea that evening. Unfortunately we had to work on a big project and had to kindly tell them we would have to postpone. One thing I have learnt is that any little utterance or expression of interest quickly becomes a huge point of discussion. It seems idle small talk is not really a commonality and that the people really hold you to your word. So as a result we have started paying very close attention to what we say. Otherwise we could end up having the entire town of Matara knocking on our door for tea.

I can’t really comment too much on the state and details of the project- but let’s just say there have been many days when Tom and I look at each other and think- wow they may end up shipping us back home if this doesn’t work out. There are just a lot of things outstanding that still need to be confirmed so it leaves us feeling somewhat weary. Then we think- hmm they have already paid rent for the house so maybe we will just stay here and surf all day instead. Just kidding.

Back to the locals, I have to say that the people we have met here in Matara, from our first tuk-tuk driver to a local teacher I randomly met at a work event are absolutely incredible. I’ve never met such genuinely kind and selfless people. Tonight we are heading out to dinner with Susantha the teacher I mentioned. He found out it was my birthday and even though we just spent yesterday at the beach with his family he invited us out to celebrate his wife’s and my birthday. They refuse to let us take public transport and so they make the drive out to brown’s hill to pick us up whenever we spent time with them. Despite the pain, of losing his two nieces and his entire home in the tsunami, he is one of the kindest and least bitter men I have ever known. A true inspiration that had the common sense to take his family and run 2km’s inland on Dec 26 2004- as his village was overtaken by the wave.

Yesterday marked another important day here in Matara as Tom and I headed off to the local Sunday market to pick up some tropical fruits and veggies. We were a little taken aback by the market at first- seeing as it was nearly impossible to ignore the rancid smell that intoxicated us the second we stepped into it. That along with the hoards of people, the jibbering vendors and then suddenly a herd of bulls, yup bulls that pushed their way through the market lane. To top it off Tom narrowly skirted a large pile of bull dung making us look at each other with both horror and humour. Upon our departure from the market clad with pineapples hot peppers and tomatoes we were approached by this tiny, wrinkled gentleman. He claimed to be from Italy, despite his obvious Sri Lankan roots and suddenly embraced both Tom and I placing his head on my shoulder. Hmmm. A little too much for amelia so we quickly said Ciao and were off despite the fact he continued to talk at us as we scurried away. Between locals like him and the hilariously innocent yet senial grandma that lives below us- I could write a novel based on the characters I’ve met- in only 4 weeks away.

So, despite the personal issues and inconviences I am faced with daily, it is the moments of sharing, the openness and acceptance of the people here that keeps me going. That and of course the constant roar of waves I can hear from my balcony. So tomorrow as I turn a year older, I know it will be a good. And that the year ahead will be one to remember.