Tuesday, May 22, 2007

today in dreamland




I've spent a good deal of the last four months here in Sri Lanka thinking. This is not necessarily a new past time for me, but lately I suppose I’ve had the opportunity to do a lot more of it. I think during the many long, hot journeys to and from Colombo, I think while paddling my way out on my surf board and I think while watching the sun both rise and fall. I've thought about many useless, meaningless ideas, reminisced about recent memories from just a few months ago, to memories long since passed. I've thought about who I believe I am, about who my friends think I am and mostly I've thought about who I truly want to be. I've also surrendered many moments to the thought of being single and about what it will one day be like to be married. I've thought about how interesting, diverse, surprising and daring life can be.

You see, I recently received an email from a close friend, he's what you might call a life or career mentor. I had written to him just a few weeks ago during a time of doubt, when I was questioning my decision to move here, to leave my comfortable life behind and take the risk to go somewhere totally different. Now I’ve always been up for any kind of adventure, and traveling has always been something I’ve embraced. But I can now tell you from experience, that traveling for a couple weeks or even a couple of months is completely different from moving and creating a life in a foreign community. I was feeling alone, isolated and to be honest, disappointed, and when I say disappointed I mean, in myself. After all, I chose to come here. I chose to live in this situation and so why can’t I simply embrace this experience. It’s only for a year and it really is an amazing opportunity. But as the days come and go I still feel deflated. I suppose being in this foreign land, in a place where people live and work each day to simply earn enough money to eat, is a huge change. While I’ve witnessed poverty before, I suppose I’ve never lived it. My life here in Sri Lanka, is far from difficult. The natural surroundings are breathtaking, the people are charming and despite the constant stares and attention, my life goes on as normal. But still this feeling of deflation lives on.

And then, perhaps a week following my down-trodden email to him, Tod wrote back. He didn’t write much, but it was enough. He spoke to me about the concept of circumstance, and it started me thinking (yes here I go again) Blame it on the lack of night life, but it’s amazing how far the mind will go if you just let it. I started thinking that pretty much everything we think, feel or do can be related back to self perception. You see, most of the people here in Matara, in my village in Sri Lanka, were born here. They were born into a life of poverty, limitations, simplicity and war as I was born into an upper-class, western, Christian home. We were born into two completely different senses of reality. Their comprehension and understanding of what life is all about differs greatly from that of my own. Tod noted that the difficulties I was facing were self-imposed, and he was right.

I have mentioned in previous posts that the water situation has been a bit of an issue in our house. The reality being that we have a shower with slowly running cold water. In my perception we were missing both hot water and water pressure, making it a big inconvenience and quite unsanitary. Then take my many neighbours who only have a small garden tap with which to wash and drink. The thought of a real shower, with actual running water is a total luxury. So, as you can see, it’s simply a matter of perception. Sleeping under a mosquito net and conducting a thorough inspection of my bed every evening to ensure I am not sharing it with any unwanted visitors, such as scorpions, snakes or even the dengue invested mosquito, has been less than comforting. Again, to my neighbour next door, having a mosquito net and a bed for that matter is again a treasure in itself. Now these may seem like obvious examples, differences based on circumstance, but what about our daily lives. If we go back to my feelings of loneliness and doubt, of being here in this great foreign land, far from home, it is easy is to see the freedom that exists in this experience. Yes I am alone and single, and while I can look at this experience and wish to have companionship I can also choose to look at it with the beauty of being free. But note that this is not as easy as you might think.

A few days ago, we began host a large family of tiny ants all throughout our house. They arrived with the first rain and can be seen and felt everywhere. It's not that they bite or really do any harm- but they are undoubtedly annoying and they aren’t afraid to crawl over every square inch of your body. I mentioned this to my driver Camy the other day. He responded by saying" wow how lucky you are!" I quickly learnt, that here in Sri Lanka the presence of ants in ones home- is a sign of prosperity. It shows that there is something in the house worth staying for- notably food. And food here is indeed a luxury. So, I'm thinking that the popular saying of the "grass is greener on the other side" is really all a matter of perception. It seems to me, that each situation, each challenge in life is not measured by its own merit but rather by the way we choose to respond to it. I think this might be the most difficult lesson to learn. If we truly do learn it, we will have to stop complaining and worrying and suffering, because there will be good in everything. And that might be too much to handle.

So as I sit here in the sweltering heat accompanied by my recently enlarged stomach,no not from too many Lion Lagers, but from an insistent stomach parasite, a smile comes across my face. The old Amelia would be disgusted and deflated by the thought of some strange creature growing inside her, but now as I sit here with my newly adopted perspective I think, at least I'm providing both food and shelter for one of God's creatures, yeah right. Bring on the antibiotics, I gotta kill that sucker.

Sunday, May 06, 2007

Smiling Sri Lanka






If you ask my Dad the thing he'll likely remember the most from his recent tour around Sri Lanka my bet is he'll say the many disarming smiles he received along the way. I'm sure I have written about these smiles before, if not shame on me. Just as India is often touted as the place that perfected love, Sri Lanka is undoubtedly the land that has perfected the smile. To give an example you can be driving along one of the busy and heavily policed streets in Colombo and be roughly pulled over by the army, police or navy at any split second. The guards at the checkpoint are dressed in full military garb complete with large shotgun in hand. Once pulled over a group of officers will slowly make their way over to your vehicle. They'll stick their heads decisively inside the passenger window and bark out a few harsh words at the driver. And then as you sit there frozen in anticipation of the unknown- you're dismissed as quickly as you arrived, left with a flash of a beautiful, wide and white-toothed grin. And its a real smile, a real genuine smile from the officer who stands on the street all day in 40 degree weather in full army fatigues hoisting a rifle over his back. And the smiles don't stop there, they continue on to the very elderly woman sweeping away gravel with hopes of making a few rupees to feed herself, to the slight, young child walking barefoot along the hot tar road to make his way to school. The smiles are contagious, sincere and completely disarming. As my Dad put it we could all learn a lot from the extreme kindness the Sri Lankans offer one another, in the gesture as simple as a smile.

Very early this morning my Dad and little brother Chris left Sri Lanka after 11 planned days and 2 unexpected ones. The unexpected ones came as a great bonus for me but were the result of the complete cancellation of all night flights. Due to the rising conflict here, with the new bombings in Colombo last week every airline shut down its night flights wary of the heightened security risk after dark. So, after spending an additional day with them in Colombo I woke up this morning alone. As amazing as it was to have them here, the sudden loneliness that follows the goodbye is always really difficult. But I've also never really understood why they are called "goodbyes" - seeing as they rarely leave you feeling good. That said, while I'm hopeful that they both enjoyed their time here I'm guessing they were anxious to leave the tremendous heat, bugs and obvious poverty behind them. I, on the other hand, enjoyed one last breakfast buffet at the Hilton, grabbed by bag and ventured off to the Fort Train Station. Today, was my first experience taking the train all the way from Colombo to Matara and one that while interesting enough, I'm hoping not to have to do too often. I arrvied at the station, picked up my ticket to Matara for a hefty 195rupees (around $2 CAD) and joined a hundred other weary passengers at aisle 5. After waiting a good 45 minutes and anxious to jump on the train and win myself a coveted forward facing window seat, I was grabbed by a man and pushed towards aisle 6. He motioned for me to get on this train as it was the one to Matara-

I have learnt to be somewhat skeptical of random helpful strangers, but after asking a few others sadly discovered that this was indeed my train.I say sadly because the train was jam packed without me and my two rather large and heavy bags. Hmmm. Well, my dreams of having a front facing window seat quickly vanished and I silently surrendered to the reality of sitting on one bag with the other one in between my knees. I sat cramped into a small crevace next to the open train galley door along with 10 other unfortunate people. And so continued the next 5 hours. So, the trip home was a bit of a struggle but the past two weeks with Chris and Dad definitely soften the impact. I met them in Colombo, where they rested and relaxed at a nice 5 star metropolitan hotel to fight off the jetlag and get them ready for a busy couple of weeks. You'll have to ask each of them what the highlights were, but for me I really enjoyed staying at Kandalama Hotel in Dambulla and hiking up Sigiriya the Eight Wonder of the World. The hotel was built into the side of a large rock and sat adjacent to a beautiful lake filled with Mangroves and surrounded by rainforest. An equally beaufitul place was the little town of Ella which just received electricity in 1984. We stayed at this amazing guesthouse right at the top of this large hill and had a direct view of Ella Gap which is 1000m deep. Waterfalls and forest were all around and the sense of tranquility and peace at this place made it impossible to remember the war-torn streets of Colombo and the North. Definitely a place I'll go back to. It would take me ages to write of every experience we had and as usual it is difficult to capture the true beauty of Sri Lanka in just a few words. All in all, it was an icredible visit that showed me a different side of this diverse little island. It's easy to fall in love with Sri Lanka but when you have your family and friends here to fall in love also, it makes all the difference.